Page 36 - Enjoy the South 2017
P. 36

RICK STEIN SANDBANKS
It’s just great to have Rick Stein sling his hook as far as Poole from his spiritual home in Padstow. Since
his arrival in Dorset other venues have benefited as Stein is, it seems, somewhat of a destination diner...
Really established now in Poole, the cool, harbourside restaurant has become part of the fine dining scene
and getting a table can be a challenge, as spotting Rick himself in the kitchen can be... that aside the menu is a paper reflection of everything one would expect from the guru himself.
Lunches are charming with a bright wall of harbour views and dinners are intimate candle-lit experiences.
We don’t often address price points in Enjoy – this is not an inexpensive dining experience, BUT it is worth every penny. Enjoy has had one of the best meals in its recent history here and for that, what price on perfection?
This review was an early lunch with family. A drink in the spacious bar, attentive staff and a huge selection of wines and spirits – the bar itself is way too easy to sit in and enjoy without the distraction of food – but not today...
The set menu is as enticing as many others’ à la cartes – hake fritters arrive shortly after the elaborate breadboard, balsamic and oil.
The fritters are exceptional – the cumin undertone giving a telltale Asian Stein note and the garlic and pimento making a fun, tasty tactile starter.
Service is friendly and assertive, the fillets of lemon sole with black olive butter, delicately presented, creamy flesh with the earthy complement of the olives – accompanied by pan-fried hispi cabbage and new potatoes. It’s delicious and respectfully ‘lunch’ in portion size.
The larger than life à la carte menu must get a mention here, as it is really remarkable. Cold starters, hot starters, shellfish and crustaceans on ice or steamed – daily fish – favourite meat and seafood classics; seafood dieppoise – a fish stew from Northern France in a creamy sauce with hints of curry, Dover sole à la meunière and Singapore chilli crab with garlic, ginger, chilli and coriander – promoted to those who love getting gloriously messy!
We love getting gloriously involved in Rick Stein – in Poole, Padstow, Falmouth, Fistral, Winchester, Porthleven, St. Merryn, Barnes and Marlborough.
www.rickstein.com 01202 283000
Rick Stein
10-14 Banks Road Poole, Dorset BH13 7QB
36
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