Page 57 - Enjoy the South 2017
P. 57

Typically – well in the Enjoy instance – guests arrive and seamlessly check in, spend a few relaxing hours in the SenSpa and prepare for a gastronomic delight in the three-AA Rosette-awarded restaurant.
If you are a fan of fine dining in Hampshire, more than one of the team will be familiar to you – they are of good stock and that bodes well for the evening.
It is our opinion that you want to see what chef has up the sleeve of his whites; the tasting menu is a must – no clues to what is coming here...
The six-course is reasonably priced at £65 (if you include the pre-dessert option), when compared to the three- course à la carte – a touch under £50.
The restaurant is split into two sections with booths, tables and decorative trees arranged thoughtfully. We start with a glass of Taittinger and elect to follow our charming sommelier’s lead throughout the meal.
Michael is constructing a wine list that is regularly changing, elaborate, 320-wine strong and set to be 50% organic and biodynamic within three years.
The first treat is an amuse-bouche – a mussel broth with focaccia – a great way to start.
The green and white asparagus with morel mushrooms and a quail’s egg with chicken skin, sets the bar high –
fabulous presentation with a touch of theatre from the waiting staff. The asparagus with the chicken skin was delightful as was the quail’s egg. Accompanied by a glass of Austrian Grüner Veltliner.
The next course of cannelloni of rabbit with peas, broad beans and a mustard sauce and an Enjoy favourite. Rabbit is rarely seen on the Enjoy tour and was a good illustration of the Cambium’s mantra: Inspired by our love affair with the New Forest. This was enjoyed with a Pinot Grigio described as ‘this is what it should be like’! Minerally – top quality. Thank you Michael!
To follow was a fine mackerel, red pepper and tomato gazpacho before the rack of lamb, sweetbreads, wild garlic, goat’s curd and braised potato and the wines just get better – a glass of a Lebanese 2012 Musar Jeune Rouge. Sadly this is the last of this wine in the UK – never fear as the last carafe went to a good home... it’s Bordeaux in character – stunning with our lamb.
The strawberry pre-dessert presented us with the best- looking dessert on the Enjoy tour – followed by pistachio cake and the choice of cheeses at a supplement.
Ambiance is lively in Cambium as one would expect from a spa hotel so close to London – a cross section of guests enjoying life and a fine dinner from executive chef Alistair Craig. Highly recommended. 01590 623551
Careys Manor & SenSpa Brockenhurst, New Forest, Hampshire SO42 7RH

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